Series 1-3 XJ Replacing Rear Springs and Dampers

It seems hard to believe that a suspension layout devised in the late 1950s could still be a class leader four decades later. Yet that is the achievement of Jaguar's original lRS layout. In fact, even the rear suspension of the current XK8, which has its origins in the XJ40 of 1986, owes much of its design to that original unit first seen under the 1961 E-type.

It seems hard to believe that a suspension layout devised in the late 1950s could still be a class leader four decades later. Yet that is the achievement of Jaguar's original lRS layout. In fact, even the rear suspension of the current XK8, which has its origins in the XJ40 of 1986, owes much of its design to that original unit first seen under the 1961 E-type.

To determine what work is necessary, begin by checking the dampers for wear and leaks and the car itself for ride height,regardless of whether it needs just dampers or springs as well. There will be little difference in time - just money. Dampers have a lifespan of around seven to ten years but should be checked regularly as they can fail earlier with no visible leaks. Springs are a different matter as the amount of wear is directly linked to conditions and usage. Rough roads and or heavy loads will take their toll, as will running with worn out dampers. They should be judged under two criteria: corrosion and vehicle ride height.Both can be checked visually, but to double check the ride height a block of wood cut to the appropriate length is a lot easier than crawling under with a ruler. An XJ with taut, well-damped suspension is one of the best riding and handling cars in the world, even today, and certainly well worth the effort required to get it all into tip-top condition.

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With small pins instead of a box section (like an XJ40/300) for the jacking points, supporting the car safely can be a problem. Use blocks of hardwood that both the pins and axle stands can really bite into. Always leave the jack in place with no load as back up.

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Of the four dampers, three were leaking visibly and would have failed an MoT. Spray all damper fixings with penetrating lubricant.

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Later cars will have this reinforcing plate/tie down bracket linkingthe lower damperpin and pivot bearing shaft. It can be left in place, but if the rear damper pin nut is stubborn it will have to come off anyway. Spanner size is 15/16 in.

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Jaguar used odd oversize nuts for damper mounting, so even though the bolt is 7/16 in,the nut head will be 11/16 in instead of the usual 5/8 in. Replace them with standard 5/8 in headed Nylocs when reassembling. Remove the front pin nut.

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Drive the pin, with bracket attached, back through the lower arm, recovering the spacer sleeve as it drops out. The sleeve is removable to allow clearance for removing the radius arm bolt (which also has a cut down hex for clearance).

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They're difficult to see and nearly impossible to photograph, but up behind the cage lip are the top damper mounts with a 5/8 in headed bolt inside and -if original -an 11/16 in nut outside the cage. When removing the right-hand front bolt recover the bracket and spring (inset) that holds the handbrake cable away from the exhaust. The damper/spring assemblies should then drop free.

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When fitting springs and dampers the only parts needed from the old units are the collets, retaining ring and sleeve to fit in the top bush. Some aftermarket dampers (Gaz for example) have an alternative retainer for the spring, but keep the old parts safe for future use.

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Always use a quality, angled jaw spring compressor and set them 180 degrees apart. Tighten progressively, ensuring that a minimumof four coils are clamped, allowing some thread to release the existing spring tension once the dampers have been removed. Otherwise the compressors will not unwind far enough for removal. If re-using the springs this last warning can be ignored.

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Whenthere's clearance as shown between spring and retaining ring, clamp the unit upside down in a bench vice and tap the ring down to release (inset) and remove the two retaining collets. The spring can then be lifted off the damper.

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When reassembling, make sure that the collets sit squarely in place before releasing the spring. It is unlikely that a misaligned collet would fail, but the sudden snap as one settles could trap a finger.

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It is best to align the mounting eyes during assembly, but if they're out of line, a pair of sturdy screwdrivers will usually twist them round. Make sure the sleeves are re-fitted in the top eye of each damper.

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Fit the dampers, loosely nipping the top nuts and bolts. A lubricated lower pin can then be slid in from the back making sure, in this case, that the two spacer washers on the hub pivot shaft and one on the lower pin are in place.If the forward damper lower eye doesn't line up with the pin, jack the lower arm or lever the damper up slightly. Do not tighten anything at this stage.

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The damper mounting bolts/shaft should be tightened only with the vehicle as close as possible to normal ride height. If tightened with the suspension 'hanging loose', the insulating bushes will be put under damaging tension simply by the suspension settling into its normal running position. Support the car under the hub flanges where normal height can be approximated as closely as possible. Tighten all bolts.

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With the car back on its wheels and having tightened alloy wheel nuts to 75lb ft and steel nuts to 45lb ft, drive it backwards and forwards to settle everything before rechecking the ride height. As can be seen, the tyre is now fully visible and there's a slight downward fall in the sill towards the front of the car. The springs may settle further over the first few miles, but not by much.